Finnish meat pie

This is what passes for a meat pie in Helsinki. The bun is like a soft doughnut and then it is filled with a savoury rice mix topped with relish. While tasty enough, the meat content can only be described as flecks of meat....

Old walls

Fat Margaret on the left

One of the most appealing features of Tallinn is that about two thirds of the old city walls and towers still remain. Most old European cities have either torn down the walls to save maintenance or provide roads (In Palma the ring road around the old city follows precisely the zigzag line of the city walls) and parks (the Planty in Krakow), or had them torn down by various invading forces.

The oldest remaining tower dating back to the 15th century is aptly named Fat Margaret and is hugely outsized compared to her tiny companion on the other side of the gate. However, this the main gate to the city from the port so a bit of weight was probably necessary. Most of Tallinn's remaining towers are more pleasantly proportioned. 

Where old communists go....

In the basement of Tallinn's Museum of Occupation is a curious collection of Soviet statutes. Naturally there are several of Lenin, but also a collection of Estonian communists - the defeated end up in the basement near the toilets.

Also in the basement is a small collection of Estonian Communist era posters. What make this particularly special was a video of the women who painted the posters. She graduated from art school in Tallinn around 1950 and painted these posters in the 1950s.

While the posters are Estonian, she had to follow precise instructions from Moscow on what to paint. It was always a woman who point the way to 'peace'. In this poster she has her protective arm over a Northern Korean boy to express solidarity. The more general poster had to include a worker, farmer, Pioneer and a patriot.

 The video was made after Estonia regained independence and the woman concludes that she produced nothing of lasting value and made no contribution to any artistic heritage. It was really moving to watch her lament her wasted life.

Lutherans

My understanding is that Lutherans are great believers in simplicity and equality before God. I was therefore very surprised to discover that what looks like an old railway signal box mysteriously transported to this Lutheran church is in fact the private box of the wealthiest family in Tallinn. Clearly even Lutherans have their price.

A sheep in sheep's clothing

I am sure these little knitted numbers are designed for Estonian dogs and not for the local sheep, though they are without a doubt modeled by small wooden sheep.

The Museum of the Estonian Drinks Culture.

 When I saw the oddly named 'Museum of Estonian Drinks Culture' marked on the map of Tallinn I couldn't resist checking it out. As is turned out it was a very old wine cellar that became a wine importing business in the 1920s and had nothing much to do with Estonian drinking habits. None the less it was a very pleasant place and I ended up spending far too long there. 

 

 

Tallinn

Estonia is a good deal more prosperous than Latvia. Post independence, the Estonians focused on building ties with Scandinavia, especially Finland with Helsinki a mere 80kms away across the Gulf of Finland (Estonian is also closely related linguistically to Finland). The connection has paid off and now Estonia is clearly within the affluent Nordic orbit.

While the world watches with interest the developments in Ukraine, the Russian land grab  has sent deep shivers down the spines of eastern European and Baltic countries. Latvia in particular, with Russians making up 40% of the population, is very nervous. Not that they expect a similar land grab, but it is almost now inevitable that the Russians will throw their weight around in this part of the world. The weak EU response has really alarmed people here and in particularly Germany's conciliatory approach to Russia (even though Poland is a more important German trading partner than Russia). Moreover, the economic sanctions imposed on Russia are in reality having the greatest impact on the countries closest to the restless bear.

Tallinn is lively city with a small but stunning Old Town. Much smaller than Riga, it does not have the magnificent 19th and 20th century districts of Riga but what it lacks in one respect, is more than made up for by the eclectic mix of old buildings and stylish modern architect in the districts immediately surrounding the old centre.