Carpathian Mountains

Running through south western Ukraine are the Carpathian mountains. They are not that high but are very pretty with forests, small villages and farms. Time has stood still here and farming is still very hands on. Shepherds tend tiny flocks of sheep and hay is still cut by scythe, stacked and dried by hand.  

Ukrainian Wedding

It is not unusual to see Ukrainians wearing 'traditional' clothing. For men this is usually a shirt with a patterned collar extended down the centre of the shirt, while for women it involves a dress with a tradition floral patterning or lacy blouse.

This wedding party were posing for their photographer in front of an old windmill so I stepped up and took a few snaps as well which really seemed to please them.

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Ukrainian toilet paper

It is not hard to gauge Ukrainian feelings regarding Vladimir Putin. As you can see it is anti-Putin and not anti-Russian. 

Church or pagoda

The Ukraine is a curious religious mix of Russian Orthodox. Ukrainian Greek Catholic Orthodox and Roman Catholic. However, this old church looked more like an oriental pagoda than the tradition church.

Cafe Biscuit

At the entrance to a huge city park is the stunning Art Noveau cafe Biscuit. Built in 1905, the cafe has managed to preserve all its original interior and exterior style, even down to the elegant toilet fittings.

Whats more it makes good coffee and has very pleasant staff. Just the place to while away a warm summer afternoon.

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Lviv Ukraine

Lviv in the western Ukraine is wonderful, and although these days the city is quite shabby and rundown, I thoroughly enjoyed being there. Unlike other Ukrainian cities, Lviv escaped destruction during both the First and Second World Wars. Moreover, lack of money has prevented the city from being modernised and even worst renovated, so the central urban area consists of street after street of original 18th, 19th and early 20th century buildings. Sure they need work but at least they have survived. 

It is a city of grand boulevards, spacious parks and elegant buildings. Even better for the visitor but less so for the city,  these days Lviv attracts few foreign tourists which makes a refreshing change from those more popular European cities overwhelmed by tourism. Along with the architecture, the city has pleasant cafes, good food and smart restaurants and all a very affordable price (especially given the state of the NZ dollar. 

And it is safe too, not just from the war which is at the other end of the country, but on the street as well. 

On a Ukrainian train

I traveled from Poland to Lviv overnight on a train and then back to Budapest also by train.

The Polish train was pleasant enough and I shared a compartment with two friendly Ukrainian men who were working in Poland and were traveling back to see family for their summer holidays.

On the trip back I was lucky to have a compartment to myself. As it was an overnight train from Kiev, it arrived in Lviv at 5 am and all the seats were also sleepers so it was basic but very cosy and comfortable.

At the border the few Budapest carriages were moved off to shunting yards. As the Ukraine and Hungary have different gauges, here the carriages were enclosed by clamps which lifted the main part of the carriage off the Ukrainian rolling stock. This was then rolled away and the Hungarian rolling stock shifted under the carriage.

Immigration and customs was very thorough but polite. The carriages were then carefully searched mainly for cheap alcohol and cigarettes being smuggled into Hungary. A technician spent hours removing panels and going through absolutely everything. Between the changing of the rolling stock and the searches, it too well over three hours to cross the border.