Survivors

Church Altar

Armenians are nothing if not survivors and they certainly have had plenty of practice.

For those who have visited Greek and Russian Orthodox churches, the Armenian Orthodox churches are a shock. Both the exteriors and interiors are very simple and plain to the point of being architecturally brutal. The stone is frequently undressed and undecorated - there are few icons or paintings, rich decoration, luxurious fabrics or precious objects usually associated with Orthodox churches. They are more protestant than the Protestants and an Armenian church is more restrained than most mosques.

Armenians have learnt the hard way that it doesn't pay to display, This country has seen a constant parade of conquerors, invaders, looters and pillagers and religious institutions have been a favourite target, though not always easy pickings.

Persian arches

Subsequently Armenian churches are plain and unadorned. However, they have not been without cunning. Older churches avoided images offensive to their Muslim overlords, but at the same time incorporated decoration and arches designed to appease their rulers. Like mosques Armenian churches make extensive use of decorative text.

Goshavank monastery still has the blackened stones from the fire that destroyed the huge library of ancient manuscripts. Here Christ is portrayed as a Mongol with long braided hair, pointed beard and distinctly Asiatic eyes. Clearly the rulers were flattered as the church remained standing.

Yet again Goshavank is a church built on top of an older temple.

Goshavank. The lighter colour base stones are an old pagan temple

Scorched library 

Decorative arch 

Decorative writing

The Mongol Christ