Chapel of Silence

In one of the busiest areas of downtown Helsinki is an outstanding example of contemporary Finnish architecture. Opened in 2012 and designed by three Finnish architects, the Kamppi Chapel quickly became more popularly known as the Chapel of Silence as its purpose was to provide a neutral peaceful spot away from everyday concerns and the noise of a modern city. 

The construction outside and inside is much the same - short interlocking sections of wood form an irregular elliptical space. Externally the wood is a rich golden colour while inside it is a muted, pale and restful. The furnishings are just simple wooden pews and an even simpler alter.Natural light filters down indirectly from behind a ceiling panel that looks like a flying saucer. 

Over a quarter of a million people visit the chapel annually. Right next door is a pub in case that is your choice of venue for reflection. 

Missing cats

Cats are almost invisible in Finland. Despite the vast forests, wild and stray cats don't seem to exists - quite likely the severe winters make survival in the wild impossible.

Domestic cats also seem few and far between with Finnish law requiring any cats outside to be on a leash. Consequently the bird and wildlife is prolific - maybe Gareth Morgan is right after all.  

Lovely Porvoo

East of Helsinki is the small city of Porvoo located on a river bearing the same name.

The city is a history of Finland in miniature. On the hill top over looking the river is a well preserved  Iron Age fort. The resemblance to Maori pa is striking with a deep defensive ditch surrounding the flattened hill top. Like pa the forts were all constructed from wood and enclosed by stout palisading, all long rotten away.



Porvoo old town is centred on the both the church and down hill the town hall. Lovely old wooden houses dating back to the 18th century line the narrowed winding cobbled streets.Around the town hall are more substantial merchants houses and the river banks lined with old warehouses.

Adjoining the old town is the Empire District with more substantial public buildings from the Russian period. It was in Porvoo where Tsar Alexander I met for two months with Finnish leaders in 1807 to hammer out the terms of autonomy for Finland following the defeat of Sweden. Finland retained all its freedoms with the exception of foreign affairs.

Wealthy folk from St Petersburg had summer houses here including the Romanovs who frequently came to Porvoo.

Both the films Doctor Zhivago and Gorky Park were filmed in Finland.

Down in the woods

Over 70% of Finland is covered by forest and forestry is a major export industry. I have always been a bit dismissive of European forest as tame and looking more like a park than a forest - nothing like the dense jungle-like New Zealand bush.  So my attitude was rather casual when going for a stroll in the forest. Within a short distance the track became vague and I was not sure if if the track was made by people or some wild animals. Just as quickly the forest all looked the same. The terrain is flat to rolling with few landmarks, the trees are uniform and undistinguished and all much the same height. Suddenly it all looked that same and It would be SO easy to become very badly lost. It felt like a bad scene from the Blair Witch Project.

One really nice feature are the birch trees which are so tall and elegant. Frequently they are the tallest trees in the forest around. The one in the photo rises above the seven storey apartment block.

The Russian Connection....

In the heart of Helsinki's Senate Square is a statue of Tsar Alexander II. Erected in 1873 when Finland was a loyal part of the Russian Empire, the statue was never pulled down despite Finland's rollercoaster relationship with Russia.

After 700 years of Swedish rule, Finland became part of the Russian Empire in 1807. Russian rule was surprisingly benevolent - the Russians left intact virtually all the Swedish institutions and laws. Finland continued to have its own currency, education system, customs, postal service and even its own army. . Unlike other Russian territories, the Finns never agitated for independence throughout the nineteenth century. It wasn't until the early twentieth century when Russia began to fall apart and 'Russification' began to intensify, that Finns moved towards independence in 1917.

Today Finns are not particularly fond of Russians, but the fact that the statue has survived speaks volumes about Finnish tolerance.

All such statues have long disappeared in Russia and this one is a great favourite with Russian tourists.

Look familair?

 Traditional Finnish storehouses look almost the splitting image of Maori pataka and in fact work in exactly the same way. The small storage houses on top of a smooth pole prevent access by rats, bears and any other passing wildlife. Despite being on the other side of the world both Maori and Finns clearly had the same solution to similar problems.

Finnish Tardus

Traditional Finnish phone boxes leave the Tardus for dead. For a start they are vaguely rocket shaped, of wood construction and a bland green colour. The double saloon doors are sprung and will knock you flat if you are not careful. However, the oddest thing is that they leave your legs exposed and this is no small thing in winters that regularly drop to -20c. If the intention is to ensure you don't talk for long, then this is a good start....